Although the walk was only 15.5 km, we had a climb of over 600 metres over a distance of 8km of winding tracks up the mountains. The views – spectacular. The change along the way from almost a tropical feel with bracken,to alpine feel of pine forest, to alpine pastures for cows was really breathtaking – but what was MORE breathtaking was that Peregrinos can pay 35 Euro and ride up the 8km on horse back which takes you about 1.5 hours. Of course those of you who know us would know that we would never have taken that option… but as my father said, horses are chaff factories and these horses follow the same path that we used and leave their gifts behind….TONNES of it with a combination of fine odours, blow flies and dodge the pad being the game the whole way up. I have to say, I haven’t had an ethnic grizzle since the stuff up with accomodation, but today I did!!!
All that aside, the views MORE than compensated for the eau de caballo ….we really do LOVE the mountains. There is an incredible sense of lightness once you are at the top of these mountains – the breezes are calm (at this time of year) the air is clear and the views spectacular. These are the days – this one, the climb to Villafranca through the vineyards and those first two days to Roncesvalles from St Jean Pied de Port that we will always remember and will in so many ways define the Camino for us.
The village we are in is bizarre. Although the buildings date from the 9th Century, it feels like Pioneer World and tourist buses come up here to deposit hoards of day trippers….we even became the subject of tourist photos … “look at the Peregrinos!!!” Completely broke up laughing when we looked at the very touristy shop in the village and saw a Spanish boomerang with Camino de Santiago etched into it…..what the heck is all that about?
We are now in Galicia which really is VERY Gaelic – even the music sounds Gaelic and the food is slowly changing (although the Peregrino menu looks pretty standard).
We are up tomorrow to head back down the mountain heading to the final run into Sarria and Santiago – less than 200 km to go.
Is it raining again now that you are back in the mountains?
I have read that the “pillage of pilgrims” that join The Way in Galicia are of a different breed – predominantly Spaniards who instead of walking, are inclined to catch a bus to take them between villages so that they can collect a stamp from the local albergue for their Compostela. So much for struggle and self reflection!! Being able to just walk or bus, the last 100km and still receive your one way ticket to heaven doesn’t seem right or fair to me. That is, of course, if it is actually true and not just an old wives tale.
Hmmm, I have heard of this happening Sue which is why I gather they have added the need for everyone to get two stamps per day from Sarria to Santiago- not sure what that really achieves, but if that is what the Spanish are doing they haven’t actually had the Camino experience. I have to say, even though the Meseta actually was very “Cunderdin to Merredin” it actually makes the Pyrenees and now Galicia so much more special. The winner for most of us though was Burgos, the Cathedral and city and Astorga with the amazing lead light and for me Gaudi and Gaudi and Gaudi….